Richard's Tromp Around Bavaria & Prague December 2007

Prague - Jewish Quarter


In the Middle Ages there were two distinct Jewish communities in Prague's Old Town.  Jews from the west had settled around the Old-New synagogue, Jews from the Byzantine Empire around the Old Shul (on the site of today's Spanish Synagogue).  The two settlements gradually merged and were confined in an enclosed ghetto.  For centuries Prague's Jews suffered from oppressive laws--in the 16th century they had to wear a yellow circle.  Christians often accused them of starting fires and poisoning wells--any pretext for a pogrom.  Discrimination was partially relaxed in 1784 by Joseph II, and the Jewish Quarter was named Josefov after him.  In 1850 the area was officially incorporated as part of Prague.  In the 1890's the city authorities decided to raze the ghetto slums because the area's complete lack of sanitation made it a health hazard.  However the Town Hall, a number of synagogues and the Old Jewish Cemetery were saved.
Prague - Jewish Quarter
When it was first built, at the end of the 16th century, the Maisel synagogue was a private house of prayer for the use of mayor Mordechai Maisel and his family.  Maisel had made a fortune lending money to Emperor Rudolph II to finance wars against the Turks, and his synagogue was the most richly decorated in the city.  The original building was a victim of the fire that devastated the Jewish Town in 1689 and a new synagogue was built in its place.  Its present crenellated, Gothic appearance dates from the start of the 20th century.
Prague - Jewish Quarter
Prague - Jewish Quarter
The core of this attractive pink and white building is the original Jewish Town Hall, build in 1570-77 by the immensely rich mayor, Mordechai Maisel.  In 1763 it acquired a new appearance in the flowery style of the Late Baroque.  The last alterations date from 1908 when the southern wing was enlarged.  The town Hall is now the seat of the council of Jewish Religious communities in the Czech Republic.
Prague - Jewish Quarter
On the roof stands a small wooden clock tower with a distinctive green steeple.  The right to build the tower was originally granted to the Jewish community after their part in the defence of Charles Bridge against the Swedes in 1648.  On one of the gables there is another clock.  This one has Hebrew figures and, because Hebrew reads from right to left, hands that turn in an anti-clockwise direction.
Prague - Jewish Quarter
The Old-New Synagogue was built around 1270, and is the oldest synagogue in Europe and one of the earliest Gothic buildings in Prague.  The synagogue has survived fires, the slum clearances of the 19th century and many Jewish pogroms.  Residents of the Jewish Quarter have often had to seek refuge within its walls and today it is still the religious centre for Prague's Jews.  It was originally called the New Synagogue until another synagogue was built nearby--this was later destroyed.
Prague - Jewish Quarter
Prague - Jewish Quarter
Prague - Jewish Quarter
The Neo-Romanesque Ceremonial Hall along the outer wall of the Old Jewish Cemetery.
Prague - Old Town
  The Pinkas synagogue was founded in 1479 by Rabbi Pinkas and enlarged in 1535 by his great-nephew Aaron Meshulam Horowitz.  It has been rebuilt many times over the centuries.  Excavations have turned up fascinating relics of life in the medieval ghetto, including a mikva or ritual bath.  The core of the present building is a hall with Gothic vaulting.  The gallery for women was added in the early 17th century.  The synagogue now serves as a memorial to all the Jewish Czechoslovak citizens who were imprisoned in Terezin concentration camp and later deported to various Nazi extermination camps.  The names of the 77,297 who did not return are inscribed on the synagogue walls.  The building now houses an exhibition of children's drawing form the Terezin concentration camp.
Prague - Old Town